What Does a Pre-Purchase Car Inspection Actually Check? A Melbourne Buyer's 120-Point Breakdown
You've found a used car that looks great in the photos. The seller seems honest, the price is fair, and you're ready to buy. This is exactly the moment to slow down. A pre-purchase car inspection (PPI) is the difference between driving home a solid car and inheriting someone else's expensive problem.
The trouble is, most buyers have no idea what actually happens during an inspection. So we're pulling back the curtain. Below is a genuine, point-by-point breakdown of what our mobile mechanics check when we do a pre-purchase car inspection anywhere across Melbourne — whether the car is sitting in a Dandenong driveway or on a Preston dealer's lot.
Why a pre-purchase inspection matters more than a test drive
A test drive tells you how a car feels for ten minutes on a quiet street. It won't tell you the timing chain is stretched, the auto transmission is slipping under load, or that the "one careful owner" car has been rebuilt after a front-end collision. Those things stay hidden until you own them — and until the repair bill lands.
The whole point of a mobile car inspection for a used car is to catch what you can't see. We come to the vehicle, put it through a structured check, and give you an honest written report before you commit a single dollar.
A good PPI doesn't just find faults — it gives you leverage. Even a car that passes often reveals $800 in upcoming maintenance you can use to negotiate the price down.
The 120-point breakdown: what we actually check
We group our checks into ten areas. Here's what each one covers and, more importantly, why it matters to you as the buyer.
1. Engine and performance (approx. 18 points)
- Cold-start behaviour and idle stability
- Oil condition, level and signs of sludge or milky contamination (a head gasket warning sign)
- Coolant condition, level and any oil-in-coolant cross-contamination
- Compression and cylinder health where accessible
- Timing belt or chain condition and service history
- Belts, hoses and pulleys for cracking or perishing
- Oil leaks from the sump, valve cover, rear main seal and cam seals
- Exhaust smoke colour on start and under load (blue, white or black each tell a different story)
- Engine mounts for excessive movement
2. Transmission and drivetrain (approx. 12 points)
- Gear engagement, shift smoothness and any slipping under acceleration
- Transmission fluid condition and burnt smell
- Clutch bite point and wear on manual vehicles
- CV joints, boots and driveshafts for splitting or clicking
- Differential noise and leaks
- Transfer case operation on 4WDs and AWDs
3. Computer diagnostics and electronics (approx. 14 points)
- Full OBD-II scan for stored and pending fault codes
- Codes that have been recently cleared to mask a problem before sale
- Airbag and SRS warning systems
- ABS and traction control faults
- Battery health and charging/alternator output
- Central locking, windows, mirrors and infotainment
- All warning lights and dash cluster function
4. Brakes (approx. 10 points)
- Pad thickness and rotor wear or scoring
- Brake fluid condition and moisture content
- Lines and hoses for corrosion or leaks
- Handbrake or electronic park brake operation
- Pedal feel, sponginess and stopping performance on the road
5. Suspension and steering (approx. 14 points)
- Shocks and struts for leaks and bounce test results
- Control arms, bushes and ball joints for play
- Wheel bearings for noise or roughness
- Tie rod ends and steering rack condition
- Power steering fluid, leaks and pump noise
- Steering pull, wander or vibration on the road
6. Tyres and wheels (approx. 8 points)
- Tread depth across all four tyres plus the spare
- Uneven wear patterns that point to alignment or suspension issues
- Tyre age (date codes) — old tyres are unsafe even with tread
- Wheel damage, buckling and mismatched brands
7. Body, chassis and accident history (approx. 16 points)
- Paint depth readings to detect resprays and hidden panel repairs
- Panel gaps and alignment that suggest a previous collision
- Chassis rails, subframe and structural welds
- Rust — surface, bubbling and the serious structural kind underneath
- Windscreen chips and cracks that would fail a roadworthy
- Evidence of flood or water damage inside and under carpets
8. Interior and safety features (approx. 12 points)
- Seatbelt operation and retraction
- Air conditioning and heating performance
- All lights, wipers, horn and indicators
- Odometer plausibility against wear and service records
- Interior wear consistent with claimed kilometres
9. Underbody and fluids (approx. 10 points)
- Fuel lines and tank condition
- Exhaust system, catalytic converter and mounts
- Undercarriage protection plates and any impact damage
- All fluid levels, colours and leak points from underneath
10. Road test and final verification (approx. 6 points)
- Acceleration, braking and cornering under real conditions
- Noises, vibrations and harshness at various speeds
- Cruise control, cooling under load and highway stability
- Cross-check against a written history and PPSR status where available
What you actually receive
After the inspection you get a plain-English written report — not a wall of jargon. It lists what's good, what needs attention soon, and what's a genuine dealbreaker. We flag rough repair-cost estimates so you can decide whether to walk away or negotiate. Most clients also get a quick phone call to talk it through before making a decision.
How much does a PPI cost in Melbourne?
PPI cost in Melbourne typically ranges from around $220 to $350 depending on the vehicle type, location and how far the mechanic travels. Prestige, European and 4WD vehicles usually sit at the higher end because there's simply more to inspect.
It feels like a lot to spend on a car you don't yet own. But weigh it against reality: one missed transmission fault can cost $4,000 to $6,000. A hidden chassis repair can make a car worth thousands less than you paid. Against numbers like those, an inspection is one of the cheapest forms of insurance you'll ever buy.
Your quick buying-a-used-car checklist
- Never inspect a car in the rain or at night — sellers love hiding faults this way.
- Ask to see genuine service records and match them to the odometer.
- Run a PPSR check for finance owing, write-offs and stolen status.
- Book an independent pre-purchase inspection before you pay a deposit.
- Use the report to negotiate — or to walk away without regret.
Book a mobile car inspection across Melbourne
The biggest advantage of a mobile inspection is convenience and honesty. We come to the car wherever it is, we don't have a stake in the sale, and we work only for you — the buyer. If you're weighing up a used car anywhere from Frankston to Craigieburn, get it checked before buying rather than after.
Ready to buy with confidence? Contact Melbourne Mobile Auto Repair to book a pre-purchase car inspection and get an unbiased report before you hand over a cent.